Home›Artificial Hedges›How to Install Artificial Hedge Panels
Artificial hedge panels are designed for easy, no-specialist DIY fitting — they clip together and fix to almost any surface. This guide covers the full method, whatever you're installing onto: fences, walls, railings or a freestanding frame.
Every panel has a flexible mesh backing with male and female connectors along each edge. Panels clip into their neighbours to build a continuous surface, then the whole thing fixes to your chosen surface. There's no special skill involved — if you can use a pair of scissors and cable ties, you can fit them.
Our panels come in two sizes: 50cm × 50cm tiles (4 cover 1m²) and larger 1m × 1m panels (1m² each). Larger panels cover an area faster with fewer joins; smaller tiles are easier to handle and better for fiddly or detailed areas.
| Tool / material | What it's for |
|---|---|
| Tape measure | Measuring the area and working out panel quantity |
| Strong scissors or secateurs | Trimming panels to fit edges, posts and corners |
| Cable ties (UV-resistant) | Fixing to wire mesh, chain-link and railings |
| U-nails (galvanised) | Fixing panels to timber fences and battens |
| Drill, screws & timber battens | Building a fixing frame on brick or rendered walls |
| Galvanised mesh | The surface to attach panels to on a wall frame |
| Gloves & a helper | Comfort and handling longer runs |
Measure width × height in metres for the total area, then add 5–10% for trimming and overlap. Our coverage guide walks through worked examples.
The core method is the same wherever you're fitting — only the fixing step changes by surface (covered next).
Whatever you fix to carries the weight of the panels. Make sure fences are stable, posts are firm and walls are sound before you begin. Fix or reinforce anything loose now.
Work out where panels will sit and which way the foliage "lies" — most panels have a natural direction the leaves fall, so keep it consistent across the whole surface for a uniform look.
Connect panels edge to edge using the male and female connectors on the mesh backing. Where you can, build up larger sections on the ground first — it's quicker to fix a few joined panels than many single ones.
Attach using the right method for your surface (see the next section). Work from one corner, keep the top edge level — a string line helps — and fix at regular intervals so there's no sagging.
There's no need to stagger or offset the joins — the connectors lock neighbouring panels together so the foliage meets seamlessly, with no visible line between them. Just clip each panel to the next as you go.
At edges, corners, posts and around obstacles, trim panels to size with strong scissors or secateurs. Cut through the mesh from the back; the foliage springs over to hide the cut line. Cutting a panel down doesn't affect its stability or how it fixes — the trimmed section holds together just as well.
Work along the edges tucking foliage so no mesh backing shows, and gently fluff the leaves out to even up the surface. Stand back, spot any thin areas, and fill with offcuts.

Panels clip edge to edge via the connectors on the mesh backing, then fix to your surface.
The clip-together method above stays the same — here's how to attach the panels depending on what you're fitting onto.
Fix through the mesh backing into the timber with U-nails at regular intervals. Fast and very secure.
Cable-tie the panels straight on through the mesh. The quickest method of all — no tools beyond snips for the ties.
You can't fix directly to masonry. Screw timber battens to the wall, fix galvanised mesh across them, then cable-tie panels to the mesh.
Build a simple timber frame with mesh infill, fix it into the ground or to posts, then attach panels to the mesh as above.

Masonry is the one surface you can't fix to directly, but the frame method is straightforward and gives the strongest, neatest result:
Screw treated timber battens horizontally across the wall using wall plugs, spaced roughly every 40–60cm. These hold the mesh off the wall and give you something to fix into.
Stretch galvanised mesh across the battens and staple or screw it in place, creating an even fixing surface over the whole area.
Clip your panels together, then cable-tie them to the mesh, trimming to fit as normal. The connectors keep the joins seamless — no need to offset them.
There's almost nothing to do. The panels are UV-stable, weatherproof and frost-proof, made from UV-stabilised PE that holds its colour year-round. An occasional rinse with the hose clears dust and pollen; that's it — no watering, feeding or trimming. With normal outdoor use you can expect 3–5 years of service.
Tell us your area and surface and we'll recommend the right panels and quantity, and send you a tailored quote.
No. For most jobs you only need scissors or secateurs, cable ties, and either U-nails (timber) or a drill (walls). No specialist equipment or skills required.
Each panel has male and female connectors along the edges of its mesh backing. They clip into neighbouring panels to form a continuous, seamless surface, then the joined panels fix to your fence, wall or frame.
Yes. Trim them to size with strong scissors or secateurs, cutting through the mesh from the back. The foliage springs back over the cut so the edge stays hidden, and cutting a panel down doesn't affect its stability.
You can't fix to masonry directly. Screw timber battens to the wall, attach galvanised mesh across them, then cable-tie the panels to the mesh. This gives a strong, even surface without drilling dozens of holes.
Most domestic jobs take an afternoon. Clipping panels into larger sections on the ground first, then fixing them, is quicker than fitting individual tiles.
Barely any — an occasional rinse to clear dust. They're UV-stable and weatherproof, with no watering, feeding or trimming, and last around 3–5 years outdoors.
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