Pitch Perimeter Fence Installation Guide

Install It Yourself, Properly, in Three Days

Step-by-step installation instructions for the Norvale Sport PVCu perimeter fence system. Designed for competent groundsmen and volunteer teams. No specialist tools and no welding required. Every supply-only order includes this guide in printed form.

✓ 7 Steps ✓ 2,500mm Post Centres ✓ 600mm Embedment ✓ No Welding Required ✓ Full Tools List
⚠ Safety first — read before starting

Installation should only be carried out by skilled, competent personnel. Wear appropriate PPE throughout, including protective gloves, safety footwear and high-visibility clothing where required. Scan for buried services before any digging — a 750mm hole is deep enough to find cables, drainage and irrigation. Use only genuine Norvale Sport components; substituting third-party parts voids the 15-year warranty and may compromise structural integrity. If your club does not have a competent installation team, choose our supply & install option and we will manage the whole job.

System Specification Summary

Confirm these apply to your order before starting. If anything does not match what you have received, contact us before digging any holes.

Post127 × 127mm PVCu, 1,800mm supplied length
Post centres2,500mm — governed by the panel and rail specification, not by any sporting body
Post hole300mm diameter × 750mm deep
Concrete base150mm laid in the bottom of the hole — the post stands on it
Post embedment600mm below ground level
Concrete surroundFilled to 150mm below ground level — not to the top
Soil backfillTop 150mm, once the concrete has cured
Post above ground1,200mm to the post top
Barrier height1.1m to the top of the top rail — the figure a grading inspector measures
Rails per bay3 rails, 2,449.2mm overall with a 38.1mm tenon at each end — slide into mortise holes in each post
Thermal expansion gap10–12mm between rail sections at each post
Mesh panelsSupplied separately — slot into pre-drilled holes in the rails
Gate modulesSingle 2,024mm overall (1,643mm clear) · Double 3,637mm overall (3,256mm clear)
Gate postsDoubled up at each hinge and latch position for rigidity and load-bearing strength
Recommended setback2,250mm from the edge of the playing area on all sides, across all levels
Gate hardwareGrade 304 stainless steel throughout — will not corrode
Order enough concrete — this is where clubs get caught out

Each post hole takes roughly 85kg of concrete, which is between four and five 20kg bags. On a standard 350m perimeter of about 140 posts, that is close to 12 tonnes, or around 590 bags. Order on a per-post basis and check the arithmetic before delivery day — running out halfway round with posts standing in wet holes is the single most disruptive thing that can happen on an install.

Step-by-Step Installation

  1. Site Survey & Mark-Out

    Begin with a thorough site survey. Establish your fence line at a minimum of 2,250mm from the edge of the playing area on all four sides — measured from the turf edge, not the painted line. Even where the FA or RFU minimum is 1,830mm, we recommend 2,250mm across all levels. It meets the FA Step 1 requirement outright and means the barrier never needs moving on promotion.

    Use string lines and corner stakes to mark the full perimeter accurately, checking both diagonals for square. Mark each post position at 2,500mm centres along the string line. Check your total perimeter length against your order before proceeding — any discrepancy should be queried with us before digging begins. Our measuring guide works through the arithmetic.

    Mark gate positions at this stage. We recommend two 3.0m double gates and two 1.5m single gates as standard on a full pitch, covering player, official, maintenance and emergency vehicle access. Confirm gate positions before digging, as gate posts are doubled up and need a wider excavation.

  2. Dig Post Holes

    Dig a hole at each marked position to a depth of 750mm, at 300mm diameter — wide enough for a full concrete surround on all sides of the post.

    An auger or mechanical post hole borer is strongly recommended for any installation of more than 20 posts. Manual digging on compacted, clay or stony ground is extremely labour-intensive and produces inconsistent depths. Consistent hole depth is what gives you a level rail line — any variation shows in the finished fence.

    At gate positions, dig wide enough for two posts side by side with a full concrete surround. Gate posts are doubled up, two per hinge side and two per latch side, giving four posts per opening.

  3. Set Posts in Concrete

    Lay a 150mm concrete base in the bottom of the hole and stand the post on it. The post is supplied at 1,800mm and sits at 600mm embedment, leaving 1,200mm above ground. Check it is perfectly vertical on two axes with a plumb line or spirit level. Have an assistant hold the post or use temporary bracing while you pour — this step needs two people minimum.

    Fill the concrete surround to 150mm below ground level. Do not fill to the top of the hole. That remaining 150mm is backfilled with soil once the concrete has cured, giving a clean grass finish at the base of each post with no concrete visible above ground.

    Recheck vertical alignment while the concrete is still wet and adjust if needed. Then leave the post undisturbed. Allow a minimum of 24 hours curing in normal conditions before fitting any rails or panels, and longer in cold weather below 5°C — concrete cures significantly slower at low temperatures.

    Repeat for all fence posts before moving on. At gates, set both posts for each opening together so the hinges and latch line up.

  4. Install Rails

    Once all posts are set and the concrete is fully cured, fit the rails. Slide the rail ends into the mortise holes in each post — three per post, one for each rail. Each rail is 2,449.2mm overall with a 38.1mm tenon at each end; engage to the full tenon depth.

    At each post, leave a 10–12mm thermal expansion gap between the end of one rail and the start of the next. This gap is essential — without it the rails buckle in hot weather as the PVCu expands. Use a 10mm spacer offcut to set it consistently.

    Work systematically around the full perimeter, fitting all rails before moving to the mesh. Check the rail line is level as you go — any post that has moved during curing will show up at this stage.

  5. Install Mesh Panels

    Mesh panels are supplied separately from the posts and rails. Each panel slots between the rails using the pre-drilled holes, engaging along the top and bottom edges and clipping into position. No additional fixings, screws or tools are needed for this step.

    Work bay by bay, fitting one panel per bay on single mesh or two on double mesh, and check each is fully seated before moving on. The pre-drilled system is quick — an experienced team fits a bay every two to three minutes once the rails are in.

  6. Fit Gates

    Gate posts are installed using the same method as fence posts — 750mm hole, 150mm concrete base, 600mm embedment, concrete surround to 150mm below ground, soil backfill above. As noted, gate posts are doubled up, two side by side at the hinge position and two at the latch, for each opening. That doubling provides the rigidity to carry the weight of a swinging leaf and withstand repeated use, including by vehicles.

    Once gate posts are fully cured, fit the gate panels. Hang the hinges first, then the latch hardware. All gate hardware is Grade 304 stainless steel and will not rust or corrode outdoors. Fit the drop bolt to double gates so the gate can be secured open during machinery access.

    Check every gate opens, closes and latches freely, and that the drop bolt engages fully into the ground socket. Adjust hinge position if needed before fully tightening.

  7. Final Inspection & Sign-Off

    Once all rails, panels and gates are fitted, walk the full perimeter before signing off.

    At every bay, check: rails correctly seated in the mortise holes at both ends · the 10–12mm expansion gap present at each post · mesh panels fully seated with no lifting edges or loose sections · no post moved from vertical during installation.

    At each gate, check: opens, closes and latches correctly · hinges tight · drop bolt engages the ground socket · the gap between gate and post consistent top and bottom.

    Finally, measure the setback from the playing area on all four sides and record it, and confirm there is no gap between the barrier and the spectator hardstanding — that is a published criterion and it is easily missed. For grant-funded projects, retain the measurements for your completion report.

Cross-section of a Norvale Sport PVCu fence post set in concrete, showing a 300mm diameter hole 750mm deep with a 150mm concrete base, 600mm post embedment, concrete surround to 150mm below ground, and 150mm soil backfill at the surface

Post foundation cross-section — 300mm diameter hole, 750mm deep. Post at 600mm embedment on a 150mm concrete base, with 150mm soil backfill at the surface.

Tools Required

Required or recommended for a standard full-pitch installation. Quantities depend on team size.

Required
Auger / post hole borer
Mechanical strongly recommended
Required
Cement mixer
Or pre-mixed postcrete bags
Required
Measuring tape (50m+)
Required
Plumb line or spirit level
Check two axes per post
Required
String line & corner stakes
Mark perimeter & post positions
Required
Spade
Backfilling & clearing
Required
Concrete & water supply
Approx 85kg per post
Required
Cordless drill & bits
Gate hardware installation
Required
Hand saw or mitre saw
Rail trimming at corners
Required
Protective gloves & PPE
Advised
10mm spacer
Set expansion gaps consistently
Advised
Cable / service detector
Before digging
Advised
Wheelbarrow
Advised
Safety boots
Advised
Knee pads
Mesh panel fitting
Advised
Hi-vis jackets
If working near traffic

How Long Does Installation Take?

Installation time depends on team size, ground conditions and whether you have mechanical equipment. As a guide for a standard 11-a-side pitch of roughly 350m perimeter and about 140 posts:

Day 1 — mark-out & holes4–6 hours with a team of 4 and a mechanical auger. Roughly double by hand.
Day 1 — set posts4–5 hours with the same team. Can overlap with digging if the team splits.
Day 2 — concrete cureMinimum 24 hours. No work on the fence during this period.
Day 3 — rails, mesh & gates4–6 hours with a team of 4. Rails first, then panels, then gates.
Total elapsed time3 days minimum, including the cure day. Achievable over a weekend if started Friday.
Plan around the concrete cure

The 24-hour cure is not negotiable, and fitting rails before the concrete has gone off is the most common cause of a wavy finished fence. Many clubs plan the work over a long weekend — posts in on Friday, cure Saturday, rails and mesh on Sunday — which is the most efficient approach for a volunteer team and gets the fence finished before the following week's training.

Need Help? We're Available Throughout Your Installation

Every supply-only order includes phone support from our team throughout your installation. If you hit anything — ground conditions, corner details, gate alignment — call us on 01282 526428, Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm. We would far rather spend ten minutes on the phone than have something go wrong that shows in the finished fence.

Prefer Someone Else to Install It?

Our supply & install option covers the whole of the UK through our vetted contractor network. You receive a fully installed, compliant perimeter barrier ready for your next ground grading inspection, with nothing for you to manage.

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